- a modern-day collectible boom Introduction In the world of collectibles, few markets have seen as rapid a rise as the sealed video game market. What was once considered a niche interest has blossomed into a full-fledged investment category, drawing in collectors, investors, and gaming enthusiasts alike. But what exactly is the sealed video game market, how did it emerge, and why are people spending millions on games that they may never even play? Sealed Nintendo Game Boy — UK/PAL/European Red label console — Sold by Ewbank’s for £4,030 in November 2022The origins of the sealed video game market The sealed video game market refers to the buying and selling of video games that are still in their original, unopened packaging. This market began to take off in the early 2010s, fueled by nostalgia for the golden age of gaming in the 1980s and 1990s. As retro gaming became more popular, collectors started to see the value in games that had remained untouched since their release. One of the earliest and most significant milestones in the market was the 2019 auction of a sealed copy of “Super Mario Bros.” for the NES, which sold for over $100,000. This sale caught the attention of the broader collecting community and marked the beginning of what would become a booming market. Comparisons to other collectible markets The sealed video game market shares many similarities with other collectible markets, such as art, comic books, and rare coins. Like these markets, the value of sealed games is driven by factors like rarity, condition, and historical significance. For example, a sealed copy of “Stadium Events” for the NES, one of the rarest games in existence, can fetch upwards of $50,000. Fun fact: Did you know that the sealed video game market is sometimes compared to the art market? Just as a painting’s value can skyrocket due to its rarity and the artist’s legacy, so too can a video game’s value rise based on its cultural impact and scarcity. The role of grading companies Another key factor in the rise of the sealed video game market is the role of grading companies like WATA and VGA (Video Game Authority). These companies assess the condition of sealed games and assign them a grade, which can significantly impact their value. A game with a high grade, such as a 9.8 or 10, can command much higher prices than one with a lower grade. For instance, a sealed copy of “Super Mario 64” graded 9.8 by WATA sold for a staggering $1.56 million in 2021, setting a new record for the most expensive video game ever sold. This sale highlighted the growing demand for top-tier collectibles and solidified the role of grading in the market. The impact of pop culture and nostalgia Nostalgia plays a huge role in the sealed video game market. Many buyers are now adults who grew up in the 1980s and 1990s, during the height of the gaming boom. These individuals are often looking to recapture a piece of their childhood, and owning a sealed copy of a beloved game is one way to do that. Moreover, the rise of video game culture in mainstream media has further fueled interest in this market. Games like “The Legend of Zelda,” “Super Mario Bros.,” and “Pokemon” are not just games; they are cultural icons. The value of these games is not just monetary but also emotional, as they represent a connection to the past. Fun fact: The original “Super Mario Bros.” for the NES is often considered the “Mona Lisa” of video games, not just because of its historical importance, but also due to its significant impact on the gaming industry as a whole. Community and collecting groups The rise of the sealed video game market has also led to the formation of vibrant online communities where collectors can share their passion, trade games, and discuss the latest market trends. One of the most active groups is the Sealed Games Market on Facebook. This group has become a hub for enthusiasts, offering a space to connect with like-minded individuals and stay updated on market developments. Communities like Sealed Video Games Collectors and Investors play a crucial role in the market, offering advice, support, and a platform for trading games. For anyone looking to get involved in the sealed video game market, joining such a group can be an invaluable resource. The rise of the sealed video game market: part 1 was originally published in Golisto on Medium, where people are continuing the conversation by highlighting and responding to this story.
— The Ultimate A-Z Video Game Collecting Dictionary Welcome to the world of video game collecting! As a collector, understanding the lingo is crucial. It helps you get exactly what you’re looking for and ensures you know what you’re buying. Here’s a comprehensive A-Z dictionary of video game collecting terms to get you started. A Artist — The person behind the game’s original box artwork. B Baggie — A plastic bag in which most cartridge games were originally packed.Black Box — The original first line of NES games came in black plastic boxes.Board — Circuit board. C Cart — Abbreviation for game cartridge.Certification ID — Number that corresponds to a specific game certified by Wata.CIB — Complete In Box.Clamshell — Plastic game box type that snaps open and shut, e.g., Sega Megadrive games.Color Touch — Ink applied to a video game box or manual after manufacturing to cover up defects.Competition Cartridge — A game used in a competition, usually limited to a specific country/region.Console — Video game system (normally for use with a TV).Counterfeit — Game components created by someone other than the original publisher to resemble the original deceitfully.Country of Origin — A game component’s location of production.Crease — Fold in a manual or box that may or may not break the color printed on the fold. D Database ID — Number corresponding to a particular game in the Wata database.Details — Basic historical significance of a game listed on Wata’s matrix code and printed on games with 3D labels.Disc — Medium for a game contained on a CD/DVD/Blu-Ray/etc.Donor/Recycled — Used original game components salvaged for use in another project, usually a homebrew or reproduction game.Dust Cover/Sleeve — Piece that comes with some cartridge games used for storage and to prevent dust and damage to the pin connectors of the exposed circuit board. E Endlabel — Part of the label on some cartridge games that wraps around the end, making the game title visible when stacked.Error — A factory flaw or mistake that is not a variant but is unique and unintentional.Exclusive — Variant of a game that is only available through a specific channel. F Factory Sealed/Sealed — Video game in the same sealed condition as when it left the factory.Fiber (%) — Recycled material percentage listed on some Nintendo boxes, creating a minor variant.First-party — Game components made by the company that manufactured the system the game is made to play on.Foil — Metallic printing on certain variant game components. G Game Component — Main pieces that comprise a CIB: the Cart, Manual, and Box.Game Specific Insert (GSI) — Insert, such as a poster or map, specific to only one game. GSIs add value to a CIB.Grade Details — Information listed on Wata’s matrix code and 3D labels containing component grades, seal rating, and other notes pertinent to a game’s condition.Grading/Certification — Process of impartially and professionally assessing a game’s authenticity, contents, and condition, assigning a grade using objective standards.Grading Scale — Numerical scale used to quantify the condition of a video game. Wata’s scale ranges from 0.5 to 10.0 with 23 levels.Greatest Hits/Platinum Hits/Player’s Choice/Etc. — Low price reprints of a system’s best-selling games to drive more sales, creating unique variants. H Hack — A game created by altering an existing game’s code to create unique characters or levels with the same basic gameplay mechanics.Handheld — A portable video game system, convenient for travel.Hangtab — Video game box manufactured with die cuts on the back to hang the game on a hook for display or sale, characteristic of early NES boxes. Also refers to a thick plastic sticker placed on the back of a game for the same purpose.Homebrew — Video game made by an individual or small group as a passion-driven endeavor, released in limited quantities through non-commercial/retail channels. I Incorrect Married Part (IMP) — A game component from a different title or print variant than the one it is included with.Inner Box — A structural or centering piece that holds the contents inside a game’s box.Insert — Various pieces originally included inside a game’s box outside of the cart, disc, or manual. K Kiosk Demo — Game used at store kiosks for demonstration purposes. L Label — Sticker placed on a cartridge to identify a game. Also used to describe the information portion of a Wata holder.Licensed — Game made under the license and approval of the console’s manufacturer.Loose — Cartridge only, without other game components.Longbox — Box variant type named for its extended length compared to most standard box sizes. M Manual — Instruction booklet included with a game that explains how the game is played, also called instructions.Married — CIB game with one or more components from different copies of the same game.Mock-up — Item made by a game publisher to preview the finished product for internal review or promotional purposes. Typically refers to a box. N NES — Nintendo Entertainment System.NES-GP — (Game Pak) Variant designation seen on the back of NES Black Box games.NES TM/R — Variant designation referring to the trademarking of the word “Nintendo Entertainment System” on the front of NES Black Box games.Not For Resale (NFR) — Specifically branded game or box, usually intended for kiosk demos, system pack-ins, or promotional use. P Pack-in — A game variant made specifically for inclusion with a game system or other peripheral.Pedigree — A game from a recognized collection with exceptional provenance, quality, size, or other unique outliers.Population — The number of known examples of a game or specified variant, usually filtered by state or grade.Port — Conversion of a game originally developed for a different console.Promotional Copy — Game designated as a premium for a specific reason, as a giveaway or redemption option.Prototype — Cartridge made by a game publisher for internal development and testing purposes.Publisher — Company that releases a game for sale; may be the same or different from the company that developed the game.Publisher Specific Insert (PSI) — Insert included by a game’s publisher for a series of games they have released. R Ramp — SNES cart design directly below the label on the front, open face.Rating — Evaluation of a game’s content by the ESRB, VRC, or other game rating board to act as a buyer’s guide for parents and consumers.Raw — A video game that has not been certified.Region — The country of release and compatibility for a game, not to be confused with the country of origin or where the parts were made.Reproduction (Repro) — Game components created by someone other than the game’s publisher to offer a cheaper substitute for the original, or fantasy pieces of games not released in different markets.Restoration — Video game component with material added (including color) to improve its appearance or repair damage.Rev-A — Revision A, denoting Nintendo’s change from a 5-screw cartridge design to a 3-screw design on NES game components. S Seal Rating — Wata’s grade assessment for a factory seal that covers a game’s box.Seam (Description) — The characteristic type or method used in the manufacturer’s factory seal for a given game (H-Seam, Y-Seam, V-Seam, etc.).Shell — Casing of the cartridge that houses the circuit board running the video game’s program.Slab — Certified video game in a case or holder.Slot — SNES cart design directly below the label on the front, slotted.SNES — Super Nintendo Entertainment System.SOQ — Seal of Quality, usually relating to Nintendo’s various forms used on NES games (Round SOQ, Oval SOQ TM, Oval SOQ R).Standard Insert — Insert included by the manufacturer inside games both published by first and third-party companies across many titles.State — Wata certifies games in three states: Sealed (factory sealed), CIB (complete in box), or Cart (loose cartridge).Sticker Seal — Alternative method of sealing a game rather than shrink wrap; the box is sealed with a small sticker.Styrofoam Block — Piece of Styrofoam inside a video game box that ensures the contents do not shift.System — Console, portable, or platform on which a game is compatible to play. T Test Cart — Non-retail cartridge used by repair sites to test video game components.Third-party — Game components made by a company other than the manufacturer of the system the game is made to play on. U Unlicensed — Game made without the approval or licensing of the console’s manufacturer.Unreleased — Game that was partially or fully developed but Exited for more? Stay tune as we frequently release new blogposts… A beginner’s guide to video game collecting: Part 4 was originally published in Golisto on Medium, where people are continuing the conversation by highlighting and responding to this story.
— Sega, Nintendo, and buying tips Welcome to the third part of our video game collecting guide. In this post, we’ll explore the unique appeal of collecting Sega and Nintendo games, and offer tips on where to buy video games. Sega Sega was always the more punk rock of the 90s consoles and as a result it has some truly iconic and bizarre titles to explore. Full of Nintendo castoffs and bloodily going where no Nintendo game had gone before you can find all sorts of weird and wonderful titles. (Seaman anyone?) Alongside this Sega boasts stone cold classics such as Streets of Rage, Gold- en Axe and the Sonic the Hedgehog series all of which can be easily found and very affordable. Sega can also be a fun console to collect due to its imagina- tive range of pioneering accessories. With everything from 3D Glasses for the Master System to the laser tag game Sega Lock On there is a wealth of accessories that don’t quite work to choose from. Nintendo Both Snes and N64 are popular consoles to start collecting these days as the generation who en- joyed them the first time round are now old enough to be nostalgic about the late 80s/90s. Nintendo have also produced some of the most classic titles of all time and every new collector wants to have them in their collection as a result. This essentially means most places you are looking at spending at least $40 for a copy of Mario Kart 64 loose and as much as $100 for Mario Party 3 complete. Many N64 collectors either start with the consoles themselves and then a few core games while oth- ers aim to own every official game released on the platform- at only 296 titles this isnt an unreachable goal. Where do I buy video games? As with most collectibles the best way to source items is to buy local. Seek out and get to know local dealers, and collectors, who might want to trade or can help you repair controllers and faulty cartridg- es if you cannot do it yourself. Buying online and conventions Check the grade (see collecting terms below) and know what you are looking for. Do you want to collect boxed games? Loose cartridges? Are they for playing as well as owning? Once you know this, buying online is easy. eBay can be a risky place to buy as many sellers are not collectors themselves and perhaps haven’t tested the games before listing online. Instead, we recommend seeking out Facebook groups, going to conventions in your country, or using platforms like Golisto.com, which is dedicated to retro game collectors. Any of these options can help you buy something specific or stumble upon something new you hadn’t expected to find. Now discover the final piece of the puzzle: The ultimate A-Z Video Game collecting dictionary Unlock the secrets of video game collecting with Part 4 of our comprehensive A-Z dictionary. Dive in now to enhance your collection expertise and uncover the hidden gems that await! Don’t miss out — click below to read more! A beginner’s guide to video game collecting: Part 3 was originally published in Golisto on Medium, where people are continuing the conversation by highlighting and responding to this story.
— Xbox, PlayStation, and genre choises Welcome to the second part of our video game collecting guide. In this post, we’ll dive into the specifics of starting your collection with Xbox and PlayStation games, and how to choose a focus based on genre. Xbox and PlayStation If you are considering starting with either Xbox or PlayStation, it is certainly an easy road to take. Most former PlayStation and Xbox owners see the disc format as entirely disposable. The sheer volume of titles produced (there are almost 4,000 PS2 games) means these games are everywhere, and you can often pick up most titles for anywhere between $5–10. Choosing a focus Genre — Are you into survival horror, platformers, or beat ’em ups? Find your niche and start from there. Classics — This is a common start for most collectors. Begin with the biggest, key titles like THPS2, Call of Duty, Tekken, and expand from there. Rarity — As with any collectible, there are plenty of rare titles. If your collecting dreams are full of the thrill of the hunt, make a list, prioritize, and most importantly, don’t overstretch your budget. Choosing a focus for your video game collection can help you stay organized and motivated. Whether you start with Xbox, PlayStation, or a specific genre, there’s a vast world of games waiting to be discovered. Ready to dive deeper into video game collecting? Check out our next guide to explore the world of Sega and Nintendo collections. Read the next episode for Sega, Nintendo, and buying tips: https://golisto.com/blog/5faa4a53fddf/A_beginner%E2%80%99s_guide_to_video_game_collecting%3A_Part_3 A beginner’s guide to video game collecting: Part 2 was originally published in Golisto on Medium, where people are continuing the conversation by highlighting and responding to this story.
“It’s the thrill of the search, design, and nostalgia. It’s the thrill of searching for the games that are missing in my collection. The design of the machines and the retro cover art of the games. I just think it’s all cool. The nostalgia of playing the same games I played as a kid. For me, that’s the very essence of nostalgia.” — Michael Westergaard Gudmann — Getting started Welcome to the first part of our beginner’s guide to video game collecting. Whether you’re a seasoned gamer or a newcomer, this guide will help you start your collection the right way. Considerations before starting The main issue with collecting video games, as with most collecting hobbies, is space to house your collection. Games and consoles take up a lot of space, especially if they are boxed. Ask yourself these questions first: Do you have the space? Does your significant other support your decision? Do you have the money to support the hobby in the long run? If you answered yes to all of the above then you can start thinking about what you are going to collect. Finding your focus The answer to what you should collect often comes through nostalgia. Do you have a burning desire to finally complete Super Ghouls and Ghosts? Do you want to become a Tetris master? Or maybe you want to recapture the feeling of playing Sonic with your siblings. Whatever the reason, we’re here to help you get started on your quest. Just like when you were a child and you declared allegiance to Sega, Nintendo or Sony a simple way to approach video game collecting is to pick one of these companies and dedicate yourself to collecting those first. So which one should you pick as a starting point? Jump to Part 2, where we’ll explore how to identify and acquire rare games. A beginner’s guide to video game collecting: Part 2 — Xbox, PlayStation, and genre choices A beginner’s guide to Video Game collecting: Part 1 was originally published in Golisto on Medium, where people are continuing the conversation by highlighting and responding to this story.
The toy collecting dictionary Welcome to the third installment of our beginner’s guide to toy collecting. In this post, we’ll delve into the toy collecting dictionary, a crucial resource for any novice collector. Understanding the terminology is key to navigating the vast world of toy collecting. Toy collecting terms you should know: AFA (Action Figure Authority): A grading system for the condition of action figures. Articulation: The movable joints on an action figure. Bootleg: An unauthorized, unofficial copy or reproduction of a toy. Carded: A figure still attached to its original packaging card. Catalog: A comprehensive list of toys, often used by collectors to keep track of their collections. Chase Figure: A rare variation of a mass-produced toy, often produced in limited numbers. Complete: A toy that includes all original parts and accessories. Custom: A toy that has been modified or repainted by a collector. Die-Cast: Toys made from metal, often referring to cars or miniature models. Exclusive: A toy that is only available through a specific retailer or event. Holy Grail: A highly sought-after and often rare collectible that is the ultimate goal for a collector. Limited Edition: A toy that is produced in limited quantities, often making it more valuable. Loose: A toy that is no longer in its original packaging. Condition can vary. MIB (Mint in Box): A toy that has never been removed from its original packaging and is in perfect condition. MOC (Mint on Card): A toy that is still sealed on its original card backing. NRFB (Never Removed from Box): Similar to MIB, but emphasizes that the toy has never been taken out of its packaging. Playset: A set of toys designed to be played with together, often creating a specific scene or environment. Prototype: A pre-production model used for testing and marketing. Reissue: A modern re-release of a classic toy. Variant: A toy that has slight differences in packaging, color, or accessories. VHTF (Very Hard to Find): A term used to describe extremely rare and desirable toys. Now that you’ve mastered the basics of toy collecting, why not level up your knowledge with the exciting world of video game collecting? Dive into our next blog post to discover rare gems, pro tips, and the hidden treasures of the gaming universe. Click here and start your next adventure! A beginner’s guide to Video Game collecting: Part 1 A beginner’s guide to Toy collecting: Part 3 was originally published in Golisto on Medium, where people are continuing the conversation by highlighting and responding to this story.
What are you going to collect? Embrace nostalgia and start your toy collection journey Most collectors start their journey driven by nostalgia, yearning to recapture the excitement of their childhood. Whether it’s finally owning that Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles sewer set you never received for Christmas or reliving the thrill of browsing endless rows of action figures, choosing what to collect is the first and most crucial step. Choosing affordable toy lines To kick off your collection without breaking the bank, consider focusing on affordable and classic toy lines. Iconic series like Masters of the Universe, My Little Pony, and Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles offer a plethora of options that can quickly and affordably expand your collection. Remember, the cost can vary significantly based on the condition and grade of the toys, especially due to the increased popularity from shows like Toy Hunter. Starting small and building gradually Begin your collection with a few key pieces, especially those you cherished as a child. Avoid the temptation to buy in bulk initially. Focus on acquiring items that have personal significance and expand your collection gradually. Always familiarize yourself with key toy collecting terms to ensure you make informed purchases. The importance of keeping a list Maintaining a detailed list of desired items is essential, particularly when navigating large toy fairs. Amidst the overwhelming array of options, it’s easy to lose track of what you’re seeking. A well-organized list helps you stay focused and ensures you don’t miss out on acquiring the specific items you want. Watch out for bootlegs In recent years, there has been a surge in bootleg toys, particularly from China. Deals that seem too good to be true often are. This is a prevalent issue with newer lines like NECA’s convention-exclusive Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles toys and other limited-edition items. Be especially cautious with rare and expensive vinyl toys such as KAWS and Mutant Vinyl Hardcore. Where to buy your toys Exploring your options While many guides suggest starting with eBay, seasoned collectors often seek alternatives to avoid the high fees and potential frustrations associated with big-name sellers markets. Here’s a breakdown of where to find the best deals and rare finds: Local toy collecting community: Engage with your local toy collecting community. Attend toy fairs, join Facebook groups, and participate in forums. Building a strong network can lead to dealers approaching you with items you’ve been searching for. Toy fairs and conventions: These events are treasure troves for collectors. They offer the chance to see and handle toys in person, negotiate prices, and find unique items that aren’t available online. Online collectors groups: Social media platforms and online forums dedicated to toy collecting can be invaluable. These communities often have members looking to sell or trade, and you can find items at more reasonable prices. Curated online marketplaces for collectors: For a more reliable and curated shopping experience, consider specialized marketplaces like golisto.com Our platform offer a broad selection of collectible toys with a focus on quality and authenticity, helping you avoid bad the high fees and inconsistent buyer experiences often associated with larger marketplaces. Enjoying the toy collecting hobby Above all, remember that toy collecting is meant to be a fun and rewarding hobby. If it ever starts to feel stressful or unfulfilling, take a step back and reassess your motivations. The joy of collecting lies in the thrill of the hunt and the satisfaction of finding that perfect piece to add to your collection. Hit part 3 and master the toy collecting lingo: A Beginner’s Guide to Toy Collecting: Part 3 A beginner’s guide to Toy collecting: Part 2 was originally published in Golisto on Medium, where people are continuing the conversation by highlighting and responding to this story.
“When I look at all these pieces in my collection, it can remind me of many things. It can remind me of a movie that I’ve seen, it can remind me of my childhood, and it can inspire me.” - Roger Daniel Alcoce Ever since the Toyhunter series aired in 2012, toy collecting has shifted into the mainstream. Nowadays, more and more people are seeking out the ghosts of toys past to recapture a snippet of their childhood. Some say this helps normalize a much-maligned part of culture, while others contest that this makes the entire process of collecting toys more expensive and out of reach for beginners. For beginners, the light is not quite so dark at the end of the toy collecting tunnel as it may seem. You may be wondering where to start, what to start with, and how to get started. To help answer a few of these questions, we’ve compiled a handy guide to getting things going. Step 1: Determining why you are collecting The first thing to establish is why you are collecting. Do you want a piece of your childhood back? Are you collecting for investment? Or do you simply just love toys? There are many different reasons to start, and although some may not have the same reason as you, none of these are the wrong approach. Collecting Toys for Investment If you are considering collecting for investment, most toy collectors will tell you it is really not worthwhile and that it is not in the spirit of the hobby. A toy that is worth $200 now could be worth half of that in a couple of years’ time. Nevertheless, it is worthwhile knowing the value of toys and what can cause changes in the market. Often, value is determined by how relevant a franchise is able to stay. The value of toys can skyrocket as a result of a reboot of a franchise, a new movie, or similar events, but that doesn’t mean that any one toy will stay valuable as a result of this. Collecting for investment can be expensive, risky, and unpredictable. Instead, focus your energy on the rewards that toy collecting brings, whether that is finding a rare item you’ve been hunting for a while or tracking down the last action figure to complete a toy line. You never know, you might end up with a collection that turned out to be a good investment — just don’t start out with this as the end goal. Exited for more? jump right on to part 2… A beginner’s guide to toy collecting: Part 2 A beginner’s guide to Toy collecting: Part 1 was originally published in Golisto on Medium, where people are continuing the conversation by highlighting and responding to this story.
